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Performance Hacks - FAQS

Exciting news! We have a new course launching on the 26th of June. We've laid out in this article some of the common questions we've received about the course so far.

Episode 22: From Childhood to Motherhood - Emily Harrington

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Emily Harrington about her life as a professional climber from when she was a kid competing to now as a mother herself.

Episode 21: Social Risk and Self Trust with Africa Brooke

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Africa Brooke. Africa is a consultant, coach, strategist, and speaker with a unique focus: tackling self-sabotage and self-censorship.

Episode 20: Mind Games - Allison Vest

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Allison Vest about her struggles and progress with mental training in climbing.

Episode 19: Performance Hacks Bonus Episode

In this bonus episode, Angus Kille interviews Hazel about how to leverage mental training for performance and their upcoming course Performance Hacks.

Episode 18: Breathing - Science and Tradition

In this episode, we talk a lot about breath! We look at the physical and mental benefits from 2 different perspectives with 2 experts in the field.

Performance Hacks - FAQS

Exciting news! We have a new course launching on the 26th of June. We've laid out in this article some of the common questions we've received about the course so far.

Episode 17: Working With The Mind - Lor Sabourin

Lor Sabourin is a professional climber, mental training coach, and Training Leader for the Warrior’s Way, an organization that uses climbing-based mental training to optimize performance and improve mental health. Lor’s work is trauma-informed and they have just finished a Masters's degree in mental health counselling with an emphasis on somatic therapy and adventure-based counselling.

Episode 16: Mastery and Flow in High Level Bouldering Part 2 - Aidan Roberts

This is the second part of a conversation Hazel had with Aiden Roberts about mastery, flow and motivation in high-level bouldering.

19 Rock Climbing Gifts They’ll Love (2023 Gift Guide)

Buying rock climbing gifts can be quite tricky: how do you know your favourite climber is into a given discipline, and how do you know they actually need that bit of kit? That’s why we decided to put together this 2023 gift guide with rock climbing gifts (and gifts for other types of climbers) that they will love and actually use.

Episode 15: Spontaneity - Jeff Charno

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Jeff Charno, the founder and host of "Being & Doing" online conferences.

Episode 14: Flow Philosophy - Cameron Norsworthy

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Cameron Norsworthy (PhD in Flow and director of the Flow Centre) about flow.

Sport vs Trad Climbing: Differences and Similarities

If you’re new to climbing, there are lots of strange terms and different styles of climbing that might seem confusing, but the distinction between sport and trad is really an important one.

Episode 13: Understanding Intuition - Lauri Jarvilehto

Hazel speaks with musician, researcher and lecturer in philosophy of mind Lauri Jarvilehto. They talk about what intuition is, creativity and intuition, flow and intuition, the difference between skill and conceptualising that skill, how system 2 can distract us (choking in sport), flow and good performances in system 1, the differences and similarities between flow and intuition, pattern recognition, the difference between instinct and intuition, how to better access intuition and flow with this knowledge.

Episode 12: Big Wave Mindset - Sarah Hauser

In this episode, Hazel talks to windsurfer Sarah Hauser. Sarah is one of the world's best windsurfers and has the record for the biggest wave ever windsurfed by a woman. In this conversation, Sarah talks about maximising intrinsic motivation, managing fear, mental management tools, hypnotherapy, and flow state among other interesting areas of psychology.

Episode 11: Adam Ondra – It's all about the psyche

Hazel talks to Adam about what makes a good climber, flow state, his childhood, motivation, mastery, processes, competitions, outcomes, the problem of under-eating in climbing, big goals and much more.

Episode 10: Mike Weeks – Exploring the embodied mind

In this episode Hazel chats to Mike Weeks. Mike is a serial entrepreneur, coach and speaker, specializing in resilience and peak performance for emergency services, police, special forces and elite athletes.

Mindfulness and compassion techniques for regaining composure in climbing

Climb what you can today, not what you think you ‘should’ be able to

Episode 9: Mason Earle – A different kind of mountain

In this episode Hazel talks to former pro-climber Mason Earle about his journey with ME/CFS.

Episode 8: Flight School Special – Busting myths about fear of falling in climbing

In this episode, Hazel and Angus Kille chat about fear of falling.

Episode 7: Tim Emmett – Which does Tim Emmett find scariest: base jumping or sport climbing?

In this episode Hazel speak with climber, ex-base jumper and all round adventurer Tim Emmett. They talk about Tim's relationship with all the risky activities he gets up to and what attracts him to sports with consequences.

Episode 6: Ross Bentley – Thinking fast

In this episode Hazel speaks with race car coach Ross Bentley about the mind of race car drivers and how he coaches drivers to be at their best.

Episode 5: Emma Wood – Competition, performance and fear

In this episode Hazel and Angus speak with Emma Wood, one of the great minds working in the space of psychology in our community.

Flow: the basics

This intriguing mental state describes everything about optimal climbing performance, and our best experiences.

Fear Revealed: Climbing Blind

GB paraclimber and rock climber Jesse Dufton is one of the only blind climbers out there who is regularly onsighting adventurous trad climbs (Jesse dubs this style ‘non-sighting’). Hazel talks to Jesse to reveal how he overcomes fear when climbing.

Episode 4: Lorraine Huber – The best way to win

In this episode Hazel speaks with free ride world champion Lorraine Huber about her journey to win.

Episode 3: Aidan Roberts – Mastery and flow in high level bouldering

This is the first part of a long conversation with Aidan. Aidan is one of the world's best boulderers and recently sent Alphane, 9a making him one of the few people in the world to climb the grade.

Hazel chats to Aidan Roberts about climbing Alphane 9A

Aidan Roberts recently climbed Alphane, a 9A boulder in Chironico Switzerland. As Aidan has also been doing one-to-one performance coaching with me (Hazel), I caught up with him to hear his reflections on the process of climbing Alphane from a psychological perspective.

Perfectionism

Perfectionism is a widely used term, and it’s often thought of as a positive thing. In fact, for many, it's even thought of as a necessary character trait for someone to be successful. You might even have heard people offer "perfectionism" as a humble-brag answer in response to "What is your greatest weakness?". The reality is quite different and might fly in the face of this common wisdom.

Episode 2: Miguel Lozano – Lessons from the deep

In this episode, Hazel speaks with professional free diver Miguel Lozano.

Can meditation and mindfulness make us better climbers?

Mindfulness and meditation can positively impact our well-being, but can also improve our climbing performance in more ways than one. In this article, we'll explore how meditation and mindfulness might improve our climbing and how you could benefit from having a mindfulness practice.

Episode 1: Sue Jackson – The relationship between flow, mindfulness and performance

Hazel talks to Sue Jackson about flow, mindfulness and performance and how they all relate. Sue is a psychologist, researcher and mindfulness practitioner.

Visualisation for bold climbing

I’ve enjoyed the process of bold climbing ever since I became a climber. I’ve always been drawn to the psychological challenge, what bold climbing can teach me about myself and [in particular] the headspace required to be calm and in-control in a high-consequence situation.

Curiosity over Conquering

Laura Tiefenthaler, doctor, mountain guide, and alpinist, was the second woman to solo the North Face of the Eiger. How does she recognise her motivations and get in the right mindset for such a challenge?

Fight, flight, freeze

Fight, flight, or freeze is activated by our sympathetic nervous system in response to a stressful situation. The stress caused by the fear of falling or failing can be detrimental when climbing. So, how do we recognise this response and overcome it? This article provides a small insight into what is a very broad and well-researched topic. In the Strong Mind Course, we cover this topic in depth.

Where do people go wrong with fall practice?

Fall practice is a tricky area in climbing. Apart from being neglected or completely overlooked, it’s often done badly. There are common misconceptions about fall practice and a few conventions in the climbing world that lead climbers against the principles we can learn from science. Not only is a bad fall practice less effective, it’s more dangerous, can often ingrain fear and perpetuates the idea that we can’t or shouldn't train our minds for climbing (or falling!).

What are some important types of ‘Mindset’?

In this article, we break down four types of mindset that if applied, can benefit your climbing.

What is Mindset and how can you work on it?

In many cases, mindsets do not change overnight but they shift slowly in one direction. In terms of changing behaviour and thinking patterns, making sure that we are part of the decision-making process and recognising the things that are within our control can be enough to begin the shift to a better mindset.

Why does climbing feel harder when we are scared? And what are affordances?

Given that stress affects our affordances, it’s important that we understand how to manage and train our minds for climbing – for our performance if not for our enjoyment and wellbeing too! This is what mental training is all about.

Is trying to calm down really helpful?

How reframing your anxiety into excitement can boost your performance

Solo Expeditions and Mental Training

Expedition runner Jenny Tough runs solo across mountains, braving bears, ice and remote peaks. How does she face her fears and keep on going?

What is the Strong Mind Course for climbers?

The Strong Mind Course for climbers in mental training and fear management. Join Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille as they walk you through the tools, strategies, mindset shifts and practices so that you can leave your anxiety on the ground and climb harder, better and have more fun.

The Power of Trying Hard

Have you ever had the feeling that only sheer will power has kept you on the rock? Perhaps you weren’t even on great form, you’d been stressed or a nagging injury was affecting your climbing, but you sent a route at your limit—not because you floated up it, or got into flow state, but because you tried really hard. It can feel like you tap into a new level of determination—or your body takes over and you let everything else go—and somehow find yourself on the finishing holds.

Why the distinction between rational and irrational fear isn't that helpful

In this blog we discuss why making the distinction between rational and irrational fear or real and perceived risk isn't that helpful.

Hazel answers common questions about mental training for climbing and the Strong Mind course

Hazel answers common questions about mental training for climbing and the Strong Mind course

Magic Line and the psychological challenge of projecting

Hazel talks about her experience projecting the route Magic Line and the mental training she needed not only to succeed but also to enjoy the whole process. If you’re interested in projecting, fear of failure, how to stay present in a process or related ideas you'll enjoy this piece!

A conversation with flow-state expert Cameron Norsworthy

Cameron Norsworthy from the Flow Centre chats to Hazel Findlay about what flow state is, how to access it and what the barriers to flow are. This conversation was recorded for the Curious Climber podcast.

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